Rio de Janeiro -Part 3- Football in Rio - BRAZIL

Long before the idea of travelling South America was born, I had heard of the must see football games in Rio, Brazil. Now we were actually here we jumped up at the chance to see a game. We ended up buying a ticket to see a Brazlian team Fluminense against Olympia a team form Paraguay playing the semi finals for "Copa de Liberators". Unfortunately, it was not at the known Maracan stadium as it was still being refurbished for the upcoming World Cup. Instead it was at a smaller venue but the crowd accounted for that. It was louder than I thought was possible.

Arriving at the Stadium there were riot police at every corner and fans pouring through the streets causing chaos with the traffic. As we were filling into the stadium there was a lot of pushing and shoving and at one point Michael was just a dot in a sea of people as we got seperated. This part was a bit scary for me but Michael assured me this was perfectly normal for any football match. Being a novice this was my first real match to see and what a first time it turned out to be. Immediately entering the stadium the crowd were going mad as large flags swayed over our heads the whole arena roared with chanting. Flares were going off and people were jumping around, clapping hands. It was like we had brought the soul of Lapa with us.

The Brazilian team took control of the ball most of the game. There was a lot of near chances but no goals. Even when the rain fell the crowd continued to chant and cheer, spirits not dampened by the weather. Alas, it was not to be and the game finished with a 0-0 result which was a shame. We really wanted the Brazil team to win has I could just invisage them blowing the roof off celebrating.

Regardless, it was a great experience and we left the match elated.It certainly confirmed to me that whatever the Brazilians did it had soul and yeilds an energy that brings people together, immersed with passion. 

Outside the stadium

The passionate fans

Under the large flags

Rio de Janeiro - Part 2 - Christ Reedeemer, Ipanema beach and the Favelas

More naked ladies...

Nursing our Lapa hangover we walked down Ipanema beach, only a short walk away from Copacabana. The strip is iconic to Rio and seen across the world often on TV and in magazines, it was like having a dejarvu feeling to actually be there having seen it so many times but nothing can do it justice until you see it with your own eyes. For a city beach it is absolutely stunning.

Once again Michael and I were distracted when we heard screaming, we thought no way not again, as we watched a black lady shouting at a police officer completely naked. She then stormed off, her bear arse wiggling, we turn back round and looked at eachother bemused before we burst out laughing. Michael exclaimed 'that's two naked ladies in as many days in Brazil, I Love this place'Ha Ha.

Michael on Ipanema Beach just after the naked lady show, unfortunately we have no pictures of her

Me Ipanema 

Lots of sports on the beach

Copacabana beach

Sunset on Ipanema

An impressive sand sculpture on Copacaban beach

The next day we visited Christ Redeemer. We were now in low season in Brazil as it was heading into Autumn so the weather was pretty hit and miss but luckily on this day it was glorious sunshine. We took the local bus as the prices in Brazil for taxis are very expensive. We entered the site and brought our tickets and then waited for a tram that took us to the top. As the tram went up the views of Rio were spectacular and the further up we could see the whole city spread across the sea front.At the top, casting its shadow was the towering concrete sculpture of Christ which looking up at him was pretty impressive.Here are some pics...

The view from the top overlooking Rio

Wildlife at the top 

Tour in the Favela 

We booked this tour with a company called Bealocal who were actually really good. We were collected from our hostel and drove to the top of one of Rios largest favelas called Rocinha. We started our descent down by foot walking through narrow littered alleys, smothered by the thick smell of open sewage that trickled along it. As we got into the depths of the favela we walked past man made shacks and some were better than others. One house was made entirely from scraps picked from rubbish bins and another was made from concrete bricks that proudly displayed a 12inch flat screen TV that was bigger than the living room itself.

The guide explained that this particular Favela was ran 2 years ago by gangs and the gang leader who ruled the area was only 27 years old. He would run drug operations and recruit the young children of the Favelas because if they were caught they were then quickly released for being a minor. Mothers feared that there sons would enter this trade as the temptation of easy money above education swayed many. However, 2 years ago this gang member was prisoned for a measly 9 years as part of a government initiative to crack down on drugs and make the Favelas a better place to live. As we walked along we stopped at a bakery and the guide told us not to take any pictures as it would cause trouble. I quickly chimed "Is that because they are selling more than just bread?"- The guide then twitched his lip and said "I guess you could say that." 

The company logo is don't be a gringo, be a local and part of the proceeds go to community projects in the Favela. On the tour we stopped by at a day care centre where you could volunteer. The center is set up to give low cost child care to enable mothers to work and create better lives for their family. This is not funded by the government so donations are important to keep the project running. The guide also told us of the government scheme that gives all children from the Favelas until the age of 18 free bus rides to and from school. All children wear T-Shirts with a blue strip across it and this allows them to get on transport for free, so no matter the distance of the school any child can attend. 

Looking below from the top of the Favela you can see where the motorway divides the rich from the poor.Once you reached the bottom of the favela you simple had to cross the motorway by bridge and you are already on a decorately lined street, shadowed over by modern towering skyscrapers where the rich live. The divide between rich and poor is astronomical. People often ask if the Favela was scary and whether it was safe to visit. As far as the tour goes it completely safe and people look happy. They may not live by our western standards but they are doing okay, most of them work in the city and live in the favela which is much cheaper. Of course given the choice they would probably move but these people are far from miserable. The Favela has a great community spirit and its own thriving economy, it is not a grim as people think. However, as a gringo it certainly isn't somewhere you should be walking around on your own at night. I dare not think about the underworld that lies within these Favelas, but I bet it would be enough to make your skin curl. Here are some pictures.

Walking through the Favela

Our guide

From the top before our descent

You can where the Favela stops and the rich live

Samba in the Favelas

Typical house

Add caption

Yep, they still get mail!!!

Abadoned trolley

The dirty alley ways

Rio de Janeiro- Part 1 - Our untimely arrival and samba in Lapa

The terrible start:

After a change of plans Michael and I were reacquainted in Lima for a connecting flight to Rio in Brazil. The original plan was to head to Colombia next, then Venezuela. However due to the death of their late president Hugo Chavez, the country has been in turmoil. We had heard from a fellow traveller who was boasting his friends taxi was shot at as he crossed over the border. This may sound far fetched but we were not willing to take a risk. Venezuela would have to be kept for another time.

So there we were in Rio, our first destination in Brazil. Over some confusion we had learned as we landed that neither of us had booked a hostel. We arrived in the middle of the night so the situation was less than idyll. But we cracked on, opened Lonely Planet and choose a hostel. Our first stumbling block was arranging a taxi as we struggled to understand Portuguese. Although similar, our Spanish had not been that good to comprehend.

Somehow we managed and we jumped in our taxi. Even at night it was plain to see that Brazil was far more developed than its neighbouring countries. We choose a hotel in an area called Santa Theresa, a bohemian area situated on the hills of Rio. The taxi arrived at the hostel but there was no room. In a panic as it was still dark out, we pointed to the next address in the book and the taxi driver nodded. After what seemed like 10 minutes, we halted to a stop. The taxi man pointed at some building and told us we were here. We said that it could not be as it looked like a security cabin. But before we could protest to much, he was yelling at us in Portuguese, took our money, dumped our bags on the curb and drove off. He even laughed in my face as we stood there completely wet in torrential rain nearly in tears. 

So we had been dumped in the middle of the night, in a strange place with all our bags, in the worse rain you could possibly imagine. We walked looking for help but we just passed deserted streets, with the odd beggar routing through bins to make us hasten our pace. Close to loosing hope we came across a five star hotel, chancing it we went in and asked for help. 

Then the best thing happened, they let us use their phone and we made a reservation with a hostel in Copacabana. The driver of the hotel then offered to drive us to the hostel. One minute we were doomed and the next minute we were siting in an air conditioned Merc. We were so relieved. The nice driver was appalled by our experience and apologised and said unfortunately, such incidents were common in Rio. 

Soon we rolled up on our classy drive to our not too classy hostel in the popular area of Copacabana. We were so glad to finally check in and have a hot shower!

Samba, samba, samba in crazy Lapa!

We had heard Lapa was the place to be on a Friday night. It was Saturday night but we decided to head there anyway. Using the metro line we headed to the neighbourhood of Lapa. Under its famous white arches street vendors sell alcohol and food and people fill the streets drinking and eating.

We went to one of the many plastic chair bars where groups of people sat around a chilled litre of beer, shared and drank in small glasses. In brazil beer is drank this way, it keeps the beer cold and it's more social. Here there is no such thing as pints. Settling into our beers we observe the people around us. I then look over Michaels shoulder to see a black woman pull down her pants and start peeing in the drain. Michael turned to look and saw her bum hoovering for all to see. She then started screaming when someone called something at her before walking away. Lapa has a great atmosphere but you had to keep your wits about you, there were definitely some dodgy people hanging around. 

Next we went to a bar playing samba, attracted by the charismatic African lady singing, her band playing behind her. We met a friendly Brazilian who taught us samba, even Michael made an attempt before sitting back down. The energy of people dancing samba together is tantalising and one can easily get swept away.

We then took our samba to the streets. Dancing to the beat of the steel bass drums. There was the Brazilian drink Caprinha being drank all around topped up with tequila shots sold by a man on the streets. Before we knew it we were still dancing samba and it was in the early hours of the morning. When we got home Michael announced for the 100th time how much he loved brazil before finally passing out.

Our brazilian friend dancing to Samba

Even Pops is getting giggy with it!

Caprinhas all around!

Street dancing under Lapa arches

The Tequila man to blame

Steel bass drums on the streets of Lapa